Panda Corydoras Care Guide

The panda cory breaks the usual cory rule: it is a cool-water fish. Named for the black mask over its eyes, it comes from Andean meltwater streams and wants a temperature at the low end of the tropical range, around 20 to 25 °C — so it must not go in a warm or discus tank, where it slowly cooks. It is also a touch less hardy than a bronze or peppered cory, the first fish in the tank to show poor water. Get the temperature and water quality right and the rest is standard cory care.

Panda Corydoras at a glance

The sourced figures the welfare engine uses to judge Panda Corydoras — the parseable key facts.

Where it comes from

Pandas come from the upper Amazon basin in Peru (Wikipedia also lists Ecuador), in the Huánuco region — the Río Aquas, the Río Amarillae feeding the Río Pachitea, and the Río Ucayali system — where they live in clear and blackwater streams over sand. The load-bearing fact is that these waters are replenished by meltwaters from Andean snows and run cool; Seriously Fish notes wild temperatures that can reach around 19 °C. That cold-fed origin is the whole reason the fish prefers the bottom of the tropical band rather than the middle, and it is why a default tropical or discus setup is the wrong home. The species is also the only one of the common corys not rated Least Concern: the IUCN lists it as Near Threatened, so buy captive-bred.

Did you know?

• It is named after the giant panda — the black patches over its eyes are reminiscent of the panda's mask, set on a pale pinkish-white body with two more black marks on the dorsal fin and tail base.
• It is a cool-water cory from Andean meltwater: its native streams can run as cool as about 19 °C, which is exactly why it dislikes warm tanks — the opposite of the sterbai cory.
• It is the one common cory that is not Least Concern: the IUCN lists Hoplisoma panda as Near Threatened (assessed 2014), so captive-bred is the responsible choice.
• For panda fry, cool is critical — they reportedly die above 26 °C, an unusual reversal of the rule that warmth speeds fry growth.
• A 2024 name change most hobbyists have not caught up with: it is now Hoplisoma panda after the biggest Corydoradinae shake-up in a century split one genus into seven. Because "panda" is a noun in apposition, the name does not change spelling with the new genus.

Tank size — and why

Plan on about 20 US gallons for a starter group of six, and size by floor area rather than volume — these are active bottom foragers, so a longer, shallower footprint beats a tall column. Seriously Fish allows a smaller 45x30x30 cm base for a small group, but 20 gallons is the safer consensus and gives room for the eight-plus group the fish is happiest in. The animal itself is small, commonly around 4.5 to 5 cm (FishBase's 3.8 cm is standard length, which excludes the tail), so the constraint is foraging room on the bottom, not bulk. Fit a lid: corys gulp surface air and can jump.

As a guide, a 20-gallon tank comfortably suits a starter group of about 6–9 Panda Corydoras. As floor-dwelling shoalers they want bottom area, not water column, so a bigger group or added tankmates pushes you toward a larger footprint rather than fitting in alongside.

How big does it really get?

Full-grown Panda Corydoras reach about 5 cm (2 in) long, but they are usually sold at only about 2.5 cm (1 in) — a typical shop size (estimate). At full size, Panda Corydoras needs roughly a 20-gallon tank, about 76 cm long; a common 10-gallon starter kit is only about 51 cm.

Adult size is sourced; the shop size is a typical-juvenile estimate; tank length is approximate for a standard 20-gallon aquarium.

Water parameters in practice

Temperature is the load-bearing point and the thing most keepers get wrong: the panda belongs at the low end of the cory band, roughly 20 to 25 °C, not the middle or top. Seriously Fish warns it "won't do well" kept warmer long-term and that its lifespan will be reduced considerably; AquariumStoreDepot says do not keep it above about 24 °C long-term. Aim for soft, slightly acidic water around pH 6.0 to 7.4 (FishBase tolerates up to 8.0) and roughly 2 to 12 dGH. Beyond the numbers, this species is more sensitive to poor water than hardier corys — it will be the first fish to react to deteriorating quality — so it needs a fully cycled, stable tank with zero ammonia and nitrite, never a fresh setup.

Diet & feeding

Despite the clean-up-crew myth, pandas are not algae-eaters and will not live on another fish's leftovers — Aquarium Co-Op is explicit that you need to feed them their own food. In the wild they are benthic omnivores, sifting small invertebrates and plant and detritus matter from the substrate; in the tank, sinking pellets, wafers or tablets make the staple, supplemented with live or frozen daphnia, brine shrimp and bloodworm. Feed small amounts once or twice a day, and because these are slow, bottom-level feeders, make sure their share reaches the floor before faster mid-water fish strip it. Constant sand-sifting with the barbels is both how they eat and a sign of a healthy fish.

Gear & setup

The single most important choice is fine, smooth sand. Pandas forage by driving their snouts into the substrate, and AquariumStoreDepot is emphatic that fish kept on gravel develop barbel erosion that leads to chronic infections and shortened lives; Seriously Fish recommends river sand. Good oxygenation matters too — clean, well-oxygenated water is also the primary spawning stimulus. Add plants, driftwood and shaded cover over open sand foraging lanes, and keep a lid, since corys gulp surface air and can jump. The non-negotiable extra for this species is a way to hold the temperature down: in a warm room you may need to keep it off a heater or pick cooler tankmates.

Temperament & behaviour

Very peaceful, active and non-aggressive — a shoaling bottom-dweller that is far more confident and busy among its own kind. There is no territory and no fin-nipping. Kept in too small a group it turns stressed and hides instead of foraging. Like other corys it can lock its pectoral spines erect and deliver a mild sting if handled carelessly, so move it in a container rather than bare hands.

Group & social needs

Keep a group — six is the bare minimum, but eight or more is the real target for a confident, active shoal. They are obligate shoalers with no sexual aggression and no territory, so the only ceiling is floor space. Singles and pairs are a welfare failure: under-stocked pandas hide and stop foraging. A common breeding route is to raise a group of juveniles together to get both sexes.

Compatible tank mates (preview)

A short, engine-cleared shortlist — the species TankStocking's welfare engine clears with Panda Corydoras and that suit its size and temperament best. Tap any to load the pairing in the planner.

• Amano Shrimp — Peaceful temperament, similar adult size.
• Bamboo Shrimp (Wood/Fan Shrimp) — Peaceful temperament, similar adult size.
• Black Neon Tetra — Uses the midwater zone, peaceful temperament, similar adult size.

A note on the shrimp and snails here: Panda Corydoras is peaceful and generally invertebrate-safe — but almost any fish will take very small shrimplets given the chance, so give shrimp dense cover (moss, leaf litter) if you want a colony to grow, rather than expecting every baby to survive.

This engine-cleared shortlist is Panda Corydoras's tankmate surface for now — a dedicated tank-mates guide can follow for high-demand species.

Breeding & sexing

Sex them from above: females are larger with a fuller, rounder belly, especially when gravid; otherwise they are hard to tell apart. Breeding is rated moderate — popular, but conditioning, clean water and temperature-sensitive fry make it less of a sure thing than a bronze cory. The panda-specific trigger is unusual: the primary stimulus is new, clean, cool, oxygenated water from a large 50 to 70 per cent change, and Wikipedia notes that a temperature drop matters much less for this species than for many corys. Clutches are small — up to about 25 eggs, sometimes fewer than 10 on early spawns — laid over several hours and hatching in roughly three to five days. The critical caution: fry are temperature-sensitive and reportedly die above 26 °C, so keep them at 22 °C or below with gradual water changes for the first three weeks — a reversal of the usual "warm equals faster growth" rule.

Lifespan

Around five to eight years with good care, with some reports to ten, though this rests on a single hobby source and corys as a genus can be long-lived. What shortens it is, above all, sustained warm water — the panda-specific killer — followed by the usual cory hazards: sharp or dirty substrate eroding the barbels, and poor or unstable water quality, which this species shows before any of its tankmates do.

Common mistakes

• Keeping it too warm — the number-one panda-specific error. It is a cool-water cory; sustained temperatures above about 24 to 25 °C shorten its life, so never put it in a discus or warm tropical tank.
• Adding it to a new, uncycled tank — it is less hardy than a bronze and shows poor water first, so only add it to a mature, stable system.
• Sharp gravel — barbel erosion and the infection that follows. Buy sand first, or do not buy the fish.
• Buying too few. Singles and pairs are a welfare failure; keep six at the very least and ideally eight or more.
• Treating them as algae-eaters or a clean-up crew — they need their own sinking food, and as slow bottom feeders they are easily out-competed by faster tankmates.
• Dosing salt or medications at full strength — corys are scaleless and medication-sensitive, so under-dose or avoid salt and copper (genus-level hobby consensus, not a panda-specific lab figure).
• Pouring transport water into the tank — a stressed cory can release a toxin in a sealed bag, so net the fish out and discard the bag water.

Signs of trouble

• Listlessness, gasping or clamped fins appearing in the panda before other fish react — this species is the tank's water-quality canary, so treat it as an early warning.
• Worn-down or frayed barbels — the substrate-and-hygiene warning sign; correct to sand and clean water before infection sets in.
• Sluggishness in sustained warm water — heat stress, the panda-specific danger; bring the temperature down to its 20-25 °C band.
• Reddened skin and loss of foraging activity — general stress or deteriorating water, to which this species is especially sensitive.

Is this fish right for you?

Do not buy a panda for a warm or discus tank, or for any setup you cannot hold at the low end of the tropical range — heat is what kills this fish. Skip it if your tank is freshly set up and not yet stable, since it is less hardy and shows poor water first, and skip it if you are running sharp gravel or cannot house a group of at least six. There is no dyed or balloon ethical red flag here, but the species is IUCN Near Threatened, so buy captive-bred farm stock and quarantine new arrivals — doubly worth it for a more delicate fish.

Bringing one home

Acclimate carefully — this is a more delicate cory. Float the bag to match temperature, add tank water gradually, then net the fish out and discard the transport water rather than pouring it in, since stressed corys can foul a sealed bag. Add it only to a mature, cycled, stable tank held at the cool 20-25 °C band, handle it in a cup rather than bare hands to avoid the locking pectoral spines, and quarantine new stock.

Common questions

What temperature do panda corys need?

Cool — around 20 to 25 °C, the low end of the tropical band, because their wild streams are fed by cold Andean meltwater. Kept warmer long-term their lifespan drops considerably, so never put them in a warm or discus tank.

Can panda corys live with discus?

No. Discus need water in the high 20s, and the panda is a cool-water cory that suffers and dies young in sustained heat. If you want a cory for a discus tank, choose the warm-tolerant sterbai instead.

Are panda corys hardy or good for beginners?

They are a touch less hardy than a bronze or peppered cory and are the first fish to react to poor water, so they need a fully cycled, stable, cool tank. A careful beginner can keep them, but they are not a bulletproof first cory.

How many panda corys should I keep?

Six is the bare minimum and eight or more is better. They are obligate shoalers — kept singly or in pairs they turn stressed and hide, while a larger group forages confidently and is far more active.

What is the panda cory's new scientific name?

Following the 2024 Dias et al. revision it is now Hoplisoma panda (formerly Corydoras panda). Shops still use the Corydoras trade name. The epithet "panda" is unchanged because it is a noun in apposition, named for the giant panda.

Sources & confidence

Sources & confidence (9 species)

These back the Panda Corydoras figures and the previewed tank mates above. Each figure is read from the TankStocking species database (v2026.06); below is the care reference behind it and how confident we are in that data. Confidence reflects the source quality, not whether any pairing is safe. Full source list and the welfare model are on the methodology page.

• Panda Corydoras Corydoras panda — Seriously Fish (seriouslyfish.com/species/corydoras-panda) high confidence
• Amano Shrimp Caridina multidentata — Aquarium Co-Op amano shrimp care; Aquadiction high confidence
• Bamboo Shrimp (Wood/Fan Shrimp) Atyopsis moluccensis — Aquariadise (aquariadise.com/caresheet-bamboo-shrimp-atyopsis-moluccensis) high confidence
• Black Neon Tetra Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi — Seriously Fish / Aqua-Fish (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi) high confidence
• Black Phantom Tetra Hyphessobrycon megalopterus — Seriously Fish (Hyphessobrycon megalopterus) high confidence
• Bleeding Heart Tetra Hyphessobrycon erythrostigma — Seriously Fish (Hyphessobrycon erythrostigma) high confidence
• Boesemani Rainbowfish Melanotaenia boesemani — Seriously Fish; Aquarium Co-Op Boesemani guide high confidence
• Bolivian Ram Mikrogeophagus altispinosus — Seriously Fish (seriouslyfish.com/species/mikrogeophagus-altispinosus) high confidence
• Brilliant Rasbora Rasbora einthovenii — Seriously Fish (seriouslyfish.com/species/rasbora-einthovenii) high confidence

Care-guide sources (8)

This guide synthesises the references below; where they disagree, the range and the disagreement are noted in the text above. The figures in the key-facts box are read from the TankStocking species database (v2026.06). Full welfare model on the methodology page.

• FishBase — Hoplisoma panda (Panda cory) — valid name/authority (Nijssen & Isbrücker 1971), Upper Amazon, max 3.8 cm SL, temp 20-25 °C, pH 6.0-8.0, dH 2-25, IUCN Near Threatened (2014), facultative air-breather
• Seriously Fish — Corydoras panda — ~5 cm, temp 22-25 °C with explicit warm-water warning, pH 6.0-7.4, hardness 1-12 °H, 45x30x30 cm base, sand/barbels, group ≥6, water-quality sensitivity, wild water ~19 °C, cool-water-change spawning
• Wikipedia — Hoplisoma panda — 2024 genus move, Peru/Ecuador range, etymology (giant panda), Andean meltwater, captive 20-25 °C, fecundity up to 25 eggs, hatch 3-4 days at 22 °C, fry die above 26 °C, Near Threatened
• AquariumStoreDepot — Panda Cory — 2-2.5 in, 68-77 °F (no >76 °F long-term), pH 6.0-7.5, 20 gal, group ≥6, lifespan 5-8 (to 10) yr, sand mandatory/barbel erosion, more sensitive than bronze, NOT discus/rams, moderate breeding difficulty
• aquaticcommunity.com — Breeding Panda Catfish — max 4.5 cm, 20-25 °C (breeding 24-25), pH 6.0-8.0, dH 2-25 (<10 to spawn), small clutches (<10 eggs early), eggs ≤1.5 mm, hatch 4-5 days at 25 °C, fry feeding sequence
• Aquarium Co-Op — Cory Catfish Care Guide — general cory band 72-82 °F (panda at low end), group of 6+, 20 gal, smooth substrate/barbels, "not algae eaters," panda among the most popular in the trade
• Zoological Journal of the Linnean Society (OUP) — correction to Dias et al. 2024 — gender-correction of adjectival epithets (neuter for Hoplisoma); why the noun-epithet "panda" is unchanged
• AMAZONAS Magazine — A massive revision of the genus Corydoras — 2024 Dias et al. revision; one genus split into seven including Hoplisoma (most species-rich)

More on Panda Corydoras

Related guides on TankStocking — each scored by the same welfare engine as the planner.

This care guide is a sourced planning reference, not veterinary advice — individual fish, filtration and maintenance all matter. Cycle the tank, test your water, and observe your fish. How TankStocking works →